The British first came and took over the Fort from Dutch in 1795, as they had taken it over from the Portuguese in 1663. The Portuguese built St Francis’ Church in 1503 and you can still see the headstones of the three nations set into the walls. Vasci da Gama was also buried in this church and, if you are lucky, you could have a look at the old register of births along with the palm leaf documents by which the land of the church was gifted by a princess of Kerala.
Little known in India is neither also the Dutch palace, which was neither Dutch nor a palace, but the place where the infamous Papal bull was read, dividing the world between Spain and Portugal. Built by the Portuguese to curry favor with the local ruler, it was renovated by the Dutch who were agreeably surprised when their name was tagged on to building: the local leaders never did take to the arrogant Iberians. Used largely for ceremonial purposes by the Cochin ruler, it was decorated to suit his taste and mythical figures still come alive on the walls as the commemorative oil-lamp flickers in the gloom. And if you insist on going down a steep flight of steps into the ladies chambers, you can see a mildly erotic painting of a many –armed deity and the ladies of his court.
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