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Part 19: El Camino de Santiago

It was 33K to Sarria and James’ dad, Graham, was scheduled to arrive there by bus sometime around 18:00.  Along the trail there were rolling, green, fenced pastures with lots of cows.  Each cow had a different sounding bell. When they walked and grazed it was a musical chorus.  The cows all looked very healthy and well fed.  I spent some of the time looking at signs and learning new words.   We passed a marker that said we had 138K to go to Santiago.  Looking at my chart it read that, at that time, we were 33K past the summit at O Cebreiro, and should be around 110K to go to Santiago by the time Graham joined us.  The last five days have been quite long and we’d passed through many small Spanish villages, picturesque areas and seen memorable sights.

Graham was scheduled to be in Sarria that  evening and we wanted to get the miles down to just over 100K.  At 100K you can get a certificate that proves you have done the Camino.  Our sheets showed that in the last five days we’d put 163K behind us.

I remember when I was race walking and doing 20 and 50K races.  20K was good with 50K being long and not much fun after about 35K.  That hasn´t changed, the only difference is we´re going somewhat slower and carrying a lot more weight.  After 30K+- my feet begin to complain and much beyond that they´re hammered.  Self massage is a good thing to know, so is how to take a quick power nap in the afternoon.  I find the first 3-5K in the morning, and if I stay too long for lunch or a break, are quite difficult.  My knees have to get warm all over again before I can get back up to speed. 

James and Donal had adopted the modified racewalk on the downhills. It´s a jog with bent knees and you let the hill carry you down and instead of hammering the joints you float down. You have to be aware of where you´re putting your feet because a loose stone can set you on your backside.

On the outskirts of Sarria, Donal and I sat down by a cement wall to wait and see if James would show up before too long.  Neither of us were long on patience and after a few minutes we decided not to wait and continued on.  
 
We met a man on our way into the city of who had walked 2500K from his home in Belgium.  His final destination was Santiago de Compostella.  He looked pretty road weary and we didn’t walk with him for long before leaving him behind.  We were solidly in the Galicia region now and lots of the signs were spelled differently but pronounced the same.  X’s replaced J’s and some towns had 2 different names.  It had been that way, 2 different names, in the northern parts where there was a lot of Basque influence, especially around Pamplona.

We got to Sarria at 4:00 and as we topped a flight of stone steps we saw a person who James and Alain and then the rest of us, had seen off and on, since the beginning.  He told us the alberque was just down the street and on the left.  We went down, checked in, found the showers were cold and that there wasn’t any room for James or Graham.  After the cold shower we gathered up our gear and went looking further.  James had given me a bed sheet that he had bought 2 of and I’d put it on the bunk when we checked in.  It wasn’t until the next day that I remembered that I’d left it when we decided to look for other options.

Donal waited at the top of the stone steps in case James showed up before I got back and I went up the street in search of better housing. 

I found one, almost new, clean, a little high priced but didn’t have cooking facilities.  They had their own restaurant and everyone I saw there, when looking at the rooms and restaurant, looked like tourists with backpacks.  As stated earlier, a lot of people only walk the last 100K, a lot of people.   One way to tell those who’ve been on the Camino for some distance is to look at their socks.  If the socks are close to the same color as the trails have been for the last few days or weeks, it’s a pretty good bet that the person is a pilgrim and not a tourist.  With the limited amount of washing machines available, as often as not, socks are washed out by hand with minimum amounts of soap, usually hand soap.  If you saw someone with nice white socks it was probably an indication that they hadn’t been on the Camino for long.  Another way to tell is if the person is wearing a shirt or blouse that’s starched and/or pressed.  No one has access to an iron or ironing board in an alberque and if they did after a week or so, who cares.

Down the street 1/2 block was just what I was looking for, I remember the name as being Las Blasones.  They had a room with 4 beds, it had a private toilet, was at the end of a hall , they had a washer and drier, a clothes line in the sun, a big dorm downstairs and a complete kitchen.  To top it off the lady was very nice and said she would hold the room for us.  I offered to leave a deposit but she insisted it wasn’t necessary.  I left my backpack and went back to where Donal was waiting.  Just as I got there James was coming up the steps. 

I asked if James had made contact with his father and he had.  Graham was do in Sarria at 6:30.  Donal and I had showered, cold, at the other place before deciding to leave and while James showered we scouted around, found a supermercado and got the makings for dinner and breakfast the next day.  By the time James was finished stashing his gear and showering we had dinner under control and well on its’ way.  We had eaten by the time Graham showed up.  We asked Graham if he had eaten and he said he was going to order something at the cafe/bar next to the alberque. 

Graham had met 2 women from Sweden on the bus who were going to walk from Sarria to Santiago and had invited them to have dinner with him/us.  We all had a couple of beers while their dinner was being prepared and we dodged cars coming down the narrow street.  The street was busy, only wide enough for one car at a time and with tables and chairs it was close quarters.  I had chosen to sit away from the traffic lane but one of the ladies from Sweden had to move her chair a couple of times so cars could go by. 

While we were sitting there I began to get the impression that Graham wouldn’t be someone I would want to spend a lot of time around.  He saw everything as a negative and I try not to structure my life that way.  I really can only remember a few times on the rest of the trip when he said anything upbeat, or upbeat without a disclaimer attached.  My mother was like that.  She would make a comment like, “ It’s a really nice day, but it will probably rain or the wind will blow later.”  Nothing could be good and stay that way, there always had to be something hanging on the end.  Maybe she was just covering her bases and didn’t want to be wrong in case whatever it was, did change.

Somewhere along about this time I began to notice that there were people who we’d see leave in the morning, then pass them while they sat in a cafe drinking coffee and run into them again, drinking coffee at a cafe when we got to town.  If that only happened once, one might be lead to think they’d missed some of the arrows and walked a straighter line on the roadway.  But, when it happened quite frequently it became apparent that they had taken the roadway, but not on foot.  One person in particular stands out in my mind, a taxi driver from London who always seemed to have stories about the walk, none of the sweat stains the rest of us had and hadn’t walked passed us on the trail.  He was sitting at the top of the steps when we got to Sarria.   

Larry Miller: I was born in Los Angeles in 1940. My father was a fighter pilot instructor during WWll and we moved from coast to coast, maybe that’s where I got the nomad in my blood. After graduating from high school in 1958 I joined the Marines. That lifestyle wasn’t for me and upon my discharge I went on with my life, and have never looked back. I worked briefly for a Caterpillar dealer in Riverside, CA before moving back to N. California where I was a welder and truck driver for a chemical company. Truck driving wasn’t my calling anymore than being in the Marines, and I went back to work for another Caterpillar dealer steam cleaning dirty tractor parts and welding. They sent me to schools, lots and lots of schools. I spent as much time going to trade schools as I did at work. I went from cleaning parts to apprentice field mechanic, to mechanic to the parts department to satellite store manager in less than two years. They wanted me to move to Sacramento and be a salesman: I moved to Oregon to learn to commune with nature. I went to work for another heavy equipment dealer and was later contacted by the World’s largest Lorraine Crane dealer and offered the position of purchasing agent and general parts manager. In 1967 I was offered a line of automotive parts and supplies and went into business for myself. My business revolved around eleven race cars that we maintained for others, driving race cars professionally and maintaining high end sports cars. I was a championship and regional champion driver. My business was the largest import parts and service, non dealer, in the state until I sold it in 1979. We went sailing in 79, first to Mexico and then Hawaii. I was an award winning Trans-Pacific sailor and sailor of the year, Hawaii, Island of Kauai. An opportunity presented itself in Hawaii during 1981 and I was back in business, importing Japanese auto body and hard parts. I also felt the pull to write and began freelancing for magazines and newspapers in 1982. My main focus in my articles is, and always has been, health, wellness and fitness. Most of us have heard the saying, “Time is all we have.” I disagree. Our health is all we have, because without our health, we have no time. I was a US Olympic team hopeful in racewalking and held all the records for the state of Hawaii. As a sponsored athlete in my forties, I finished first in nine marathons in a row in my division, qualified for the Ironman® and was the state USCF cycling champion five times in Hawaii and Oregon. Celinda and I were married in 1988 after a three year engagement. We sold our businesses and organic farm and sailed back to Oregon. After our sailboat boat was sold, we moved to Joseph, Oregon, two miles from the trailhead into the Eagle Cap Wilderness. We were caregivers for my mother the last ten years she was alive. We moved to New Mexico in 1995 because it was too cold for my mom in Oregon during the winters. Celinda designed, and I engineered and built our strawbale house. I began writing the weekly health column for a local newspaper in 1996, and still do. In 2000, I took the summer off to do a four month, 4000 mile, hike, bike and kayak odyssey. I’d been writing health, fitness and sports articles since 1982 and the journey produced a full-length, nonfiction, first person adventure book, Yol Bolsun, May There Be A Road, which can be bought from Amazon.com and others over the Internet. The summer of 2001 was spent hiking. kayaking, fishing and exploring the southwest. In 2002 Celinda and I spent the summer in Canada learning the hospitality business at a resort in preparation for doing promotion for the resort in the US. Most of 2003 was spent reestablishing the trees and landscape that had died during the stay in Canada. We had a house sitter and the house sitter had an ex-husband, and that’s a long story. In July of 2004 I did a solo kayak trip on the Snake River, taking pictures, writing articles and pencil sketching the journey. I hope to do another kayak adventure on the Snake River during the summer of 2008, on the section I missed in 2000 and 2004. In 2005, I returned to Canada to the resort where we’d spent 2002. I was supposed to be there for the month of June. I’d contacted people I’d met in 2002 and they came back to Canada to fish, hike and spend time at the resort, Echo Valley Ranch and Spa, while I was there. My one month became five and then it was off to Spain to do the El Camino de Santiago as a travel companion with one of the guests who’d returned to Canada in June. During the summer of 2006 a friend from Ireland, who I’d met in Spain the year before, came to visit in NM and we fished, hiked and explored the White Mountains of AZ. He’d never slept out in the wild in a tent before, and it was quite an experience, for both of us. My newspaper articles were put on the Internet beginning in 2002. I was asked to give public speaking engagements, photo and video presentations, on various subjects for the library in Deming, NM and continue to do so. In 2006 I videoed and produced a DVD for the Smithsonian Institute’s travel exhibit “Between Fences.” NMFILMS had a conference by invitation only, which I attended. While attending the conference, I realized that film making wasn’t what I wanted to do but I still wanted to use my sixteen years of experience and enjoyment of videoing and photography. During the winter of 2005, I discovered that no one on record had ever run from the Arizona border to the Texas border, a distance of 165 miles. During the spring and summer of 2006 I trained for the run and the run was completed in October, 2006. In late 2005, I began building and maintaining websites incorporating all the things I enjoyed about video, photography, travel and the out of doors. 2007 has been a summer of upgrading the home and property which resulted in a downgrading of my enthusiasm for being located in one place. If we don’t like what’s happening in our life, we need to change what we’re doing. Celinda and I are ready to pull up roots and move on. I guess I’ve come full circle. I’m ready to revert back to my childhood, and a nomadic lifestyle.
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