Valentino

The weightless fabrics in Valentino’s masterly collection seemed

to waft over the body. Even the double-faced woolens he uses in his

louboutin shoes like tunics with matching short skirts look – and behave –

more like chiffon than worsted. Like Lacroix, Valentino lifts the

waistline via bustline seaming that gives a new swing to jackets

and coats as well as dresses.

For those weary of suits, Valentino’s flaring dresses over

matching skirts look like sure-fire replacements. The collection is

totally feminine in a modern, effortless way, the colors mainly in

the palest pastels and beiges. Some of the knock-out evening looks

include peignoir-like chiffon gowns. One, in a mousseline that

ombres from peach to gray, is worn over a lace-banded,

silver-beaded teddy.

The most poetic collection of the season comes from Maurizio

chrsitian louboutin. This young Italian designer, now in his second couture

season, has a rare gift with fabrics and a color sense comparable

to Saint Laurent’s. A simple chemise dress is made of 4-inch

squares of pale gray organza. Each ravioli-like square encloses

three or four loose pearls. When the model walks, the pearls move

in a kind of magical mystery tour of the body. A dramatic stole is

made of origami-like folds of organ-za strung together like a

Japanese lantern.

A simple T-shirt takes one woman three weeks to knit because the

size of the needle is changed seven times to form different stitch

patterns. Louboutin pumps  includes six different fabrics cut and

placed, collage-like, to form a flower, then sewn by hand to silk

crepe dresses and pants. One dress has a sleeve embroidered with

real coral. A jacket of loosely crocheted cotton is beaded with

small onyx stones.